segunda-feira, 31 de dezembro de 2012

Retrospectiva 2012 / HighLight of 2012

THE year of 2012 was full of lessons which I will carry for all my life, thanks so much everyone who helped me to grow as a better person, all of you are very special to me!!!


New Year 2011 => 2012 - RockLands / South Africa

I must thank Paul, Cameron, Gareth, Amber and Darryn for that crazy trip that introduces me into one of the best area for bouldering in the world, futhermore on that trip with that amazing feeling around us I could start doing free solo on HighLine, and I felt the real feeling to walk on a HighLine. After that, I did 3 more free solo in South Africa...

Free Solo HighLining at RockLands


Free Solo HighLining at Table Mountain


March - Last day of my trip in South Africa

It was pretty sad and happy, after of 5 months there everything made sense and Cape Town seemed an home to me, but the time to go back to Brazil was arriving and how to live far away of some lovely friends which I made in South Africa? Some friends like Ann, Mike, Josh and Birenim (School of Language "Let's Learn English") Some friends of climbing as my awesome, amazing, kind...I don't know if there are more adjectives to describe you Rachel...I can say, "climbing saved my life in South Africa", All the other climbers too as Warren, Simon, Craig, Geoff, Henrik, Sheldon, Kathi, Neels, Marthinus, Andrew, Clifford, Ryan, Lara...So, internet thanks for keeping myself in touch with them!!!

Let's Learn English

Bouldering at Llandudno beach with Rach

Feijoada to some friends at Yellow House


Back to Brazil and Support of HippyTree Brasil

I was invited to be part of the tribe and for me who loves rock climbing and highlining which are some of the focus of HippyTree was an pleasure to me.




First Rock Climbing trip in Brazil - Castelo/ES

It was 2 days of a great vibe with Naoki and Rebit, now the language is portuguese but when I was climbing and I fell I suddenly yelled "Take" in portuguese is "Pega", when you are scare you say the first thing in your mind. The conclusion is, my trip to rock climbing and studying English was good enough!!!



DuNada and I had started to open that line 2 years ago and finally on July of 2012 we finished it after 2 days on the rock without water and food enough, we were the first 2 rock climbers to be on the top of the Totem and it was more special because was the first route of trad climbing I opened with DuNada who was my "dad" in the rock climbing.

The route

Making the guide

The Family

30 September

I met the girl who is making my days better and the feeling I feel for her is growing each day more...



November

Again the "ACE" (Association of Climbing in Espírito Santo) organized the 2º Mountain Film Festival in Vitória at Cine Jardins with the goal of share the activity of mountain with the others who lives in the State of Espírito Santo, as well as to give the opportunity to some local producers to show they new videos. I participated of the festival with the video "Indoor-Fina" where Naoki and I filmed and edited.



27 December

One day which I was waiting for a long time ago, I finally sent the hardest sport route (until now) in the State of Espírito Santo "Avalanche 9c (Br) / 8a (Fr)", but to write about it I have to start from the begin...

First part

Since Naoki Arima moved to Vitória we started to climb together and watching him climbing and training, I could understand more about that amazing lifestyle of being on the rock...One of the lessons which I learned was search for some new crags, new lines because if you looking for it you will find it...

We spent 2 years without have any consistent area to develop for sport climbing where the hardest route in that time was "Tiru-Liru 7b+ (Fr)", the kind of rock predominant here is granite and the chance to open an overhang route is small.

However, Calogi solved our problem, in the first year developing this crag, mainly Naoki and others climbers had opened approximately 40 sport climbing routes and 2 multi-pitch, today Calogi is the crag with the hardest routes in Espírito Santo to see the guide click HERE and then Click on BRASIL => Espírito Santo => Calogi

View of the all route

So, the line which I was waiting for so long time ago was front of me, I opened the route "Avalanche" and then Naoki made some corrections were changed the end of my first idea of that line but it was much better.

After that, we started to paste some crimps that could break and finally done to try!!!

Last Crux

Naoki made the first ascent of Avalanche (Click HERE to watch that video) and it motivated me to try harder but I couldn't do it yet, so in the last 2 weeks of the year I started to fight again with that route and in each attempt I was going further until achieve it...

I have to thank Naoki, DuNada and Felipe to be part of that special moment in my life!!!  

Now looking for what?

New special moments like these above always sharing some amazing feeling together my friends and with the rest of the world, because without all of you I couldn't do anything, I wish that 2013 be full of challenges and that us can overcome it...Happy New Year!!!    

quarta-feira, 12 de dezembro de 2012

O Muro da ACE = Indoor-Fina

Indoor-Fina foi o resultado de uma idéia, novos equipamentos e um prazo curtíssimo para as gravações e edição.

O video participou da II Mostra de filmes de Montanha do ES.


Só tenho a agradecer a todos os escaladores Capixabas principalmente ao Naoki pelo convite e idéia super bacana de mostrar o Muro da ACE para o Brasil inteiro a partir deste video "INDOOR-FINA"

Indoor Fina from Naoki Arima on Vimeo.

A "JapAfeto Production" só está aquecendo as lentes em breve muito mais...

Mais infos:
http://naokiarima.com/blogwp/?p=5649

segunda-feira, 5 de novembro de 2012

Dia de Loop

Quando o tempo não ajuda na escalada o jeito é procurar um outra opção, desta vez recebi um convite muito bacana do meu amigo Romulo Finamore da Loop Wind SUP. Agente já vinha combinado esta visita a muito tempo mas como a escalada não dava descanso eu acabei só conseguindo ir lá neste último final de semana devido ao mau tempo geral que se estabilizou no Espírito Santo.

Eu tinha uma relação muito forte com o mar quando eu remava, acabei perdendo muito isso quando comecei a Escalada, mas sempre que escapo para dar uma remada em um barco a remo, caiaque ou agora SUP me sinto muito bem e recomendo a todos.

Confiram então um Dia de Loop...

Dia de Loop from Caio Salomão on Vimeo.

Muito Obrigado pela agradável manhã Rominho e toda a sua equipe!!!


sexta-feira, 2 de novembro de 2012

WindSurf SUP SlackLine / Ilha das Andorinhas

Mais um dia incrível desbravando as possibilidades de Vitória-ES para a prática do SlackLine, desta vez fui com o meu grande amigo Arthur Tenório e o Pat Warren abrir o SlackLine da Ilha das Andorinhas que ficou com uns 8m de altura e 18m de distância aproximadamente.

Porém para chegar até aquelas ilhotas nós contamos com a ajuda do Romulo Finamore (www.loopwinsup.com) que nos deu uma força com o windsurf e o SUP.

WindSurf SUP SlackLine / Ilha das Andorinhas - VitóriaES from Caio Salomão on Vimeo.

Muito Obrigado a todos que ajudaram, foi demais!!!

Apoio:
HippyTree Brasil (www.hippytree.com.br)

domingo, 14 de outubro de 2012

Evolução do 8a na Escalada Esportiva Capixaba


EVOLUÇÃO, DETERMINAÇÃO, SUPERAÇÃO...

Muitos são os adjetivos para definir uma cadena tão batalhada e querida por nós escaladores, recentemente a Escalada Esportiva no Espírito Santo vem evoluindo de uma forma muito expressiva, tanto no quesito escaladores quanto em quantidade e diversidade de vias...

2 fatos recentes mostram bem essa nova fase da Escalada Capixaba:

* FA - Naoki Arima - Via Avalanche - 8a Fr/9c Bra - Calogi - Serra - ES

* Cadena - Diandra Pittella - Via Expresso da Meia-Noite - 8a Bra - Calogi - Serra - ES

Nada disso seria possível sem o Calogi, que é atualmente o point de Escalada mais requisitado pela quantidade, dificuldade e tamanho das vias, exigindo muito mais dos escaladores.

Japa Aquecendo: Calogi

Di Determinada: Calogi

* Outro fato, ou melhor Escalador que vem dando muito orgulho para nós do ES é o escalador Felipe Alves, que ficou em 2º lugar no 1º Festival de Escalada do Astolfo no ano passado...Ele vem se dedicando bastante aos treinos indoor pela falta de tempo para ir a pedra mas concerteza é a nossa grande "Realidade"!!!

Felipera Focado: Calogi

Agradeço demais a todos os escaladores do ES que vem se dedicando a mostrar essa Good Vibe da Escalada Capixaba...E a esses 3 daí de cima, Parabéns e muito obrigado por compartilhar tantos bons momentos na Pedra e que muitos outros venham!!!

Série de Videos: Escalada no Calogi
Escalada em Calogi - ES "3" from Caio Salomão on Vimeo.


"Venga a Muerte"

terça-feira, 25 de setembro de 2012

Don't Think Just Go - Table Mountain

That trip to Table Mountain was my last contact with the Rocks of the South Africa, however I finally felt the feeling which I was looking for in my life, the experience to do trad rock climbing and highlining free solo at Table Mountain changed my thinking about everything.

I'm very grateful for Andrew, Joff and Neels for making that dream real.

You can find more about that trip at Sport24 a journal from South Africa:
http://www.sport24.co.za/MySport24/Daredevil-crosses-Table-Mountain-20120927 



Awesome Route:

Thanks Neels:

Thanks Andrew and Joff:




Thanks So Much South Africa!!!

segunda-feira, 17 de setembro de 2012

Don't Think Just Go - Chapman's Peak

Almost an year ago I was at South Africa living a dream, that trip was unbelievable, I met amazing people there who supported me to do all my wishes as a rock climber and highliner.

About HighLine, my main idea was to feel the real freedom I mean I've to start at free solo, there I found all I needed...The good vibration ever to do it!!!

Futhermore, Darryn wrote an Article about our HighLine day at Chapman's Peak.



Thanks Cameron and Darryn without both of you I coudn't do it!!!

Video HighLine at Chapman's Peak:

sábado, 15 de setembro de 2012

WaterLine Pier Rio das Ostras-RJ

Desde 2010 quando fui em Rio das Ostras pela primeira vez fiquei com a idéia de fazer um WaterLine nesse Pier, finalmente depois de 2 anos lá fui eu para o pier novamente...Desta vez o WaterLine saiu e ficou com aproximadamente 8m de altura e 10m de distância.